The light green/gold-colored 2000 St.-Joseph (100% barrel-fermented Roussanne that was kept sur-lie) exhibits a lovely honeyed citrus character, medium body, and good underlying acidity. This 2000 white is light, but fruity, precocious, and charming.
Note: The Gaillard wines I tasted were all cuvees selected by David Hinkle of North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910. In contrast to Gaillard's other cuvees, the North Berkeley cuvees are aged for a shorter period in new oak (12 versus 18 months). In tasting the other cuvees available throughout the world, there was a substantial difference, with drier, harder tannin because of the longer aging in wood. They are surely very good wines, but readers who do not have access to the North Berkeley cuvees should proceed with caution. Hopefully, Gaillard will realize that there is more fruit and character in the earlier bottled North Berkeley cuvees. Certainly he is doing some serious work.
For readers unable to find the North Berkeley cuvees, my ratings on the same Cote Roties and St.-Joseph Clos de Cuminaille bottled after 18 months in wood averaged 2-4 points lower.
Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910
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