Grown in Rutherford, this 100% Cab may strike some as old-fashioned. It’s bone dry, firm in acids and tannins, and the grapes evidently were not left on the vines until they were partially shrivelled. You can tell, because there’s an earthy, green olive edge to the blackberry fruit flavors. But that’s what makes this wine so fine and food-friendly.——S.H.(6/1/2008)—— 91