The Dirler 2007 Muscat d'Alsace Saering - like their 2007 Spiegel, nearly pure Ottonel and truly dry - is scented with orange, basil, and mint; offers infectiously juicy refreshment and lift; and finishes with piquant citrus rind, toasted nuts, apricot kernel, and chalk. In addition to the (unfortunate) rarity nowadays of encountering a refreshing and truly dry Muscat d'Alsace, how often does encounter any ripe, complex Alsace wine at a mere 12% alcohol? And while this is delightful now, it will also be worth following for 6-8 years. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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