The latest installment of one of the most consistently successful collections in this genre, the Dirlers’ 2004 Muscat d’Alsace Saering – consisting 90% of Muscat Ottonel, a grape I do not usually hold in high esteem – represents a style of Muscat d’Alsace one will unfortunately seldom any longer encounter. Sage, marjoram, coffee, lemon zest, and apricot aromas lead to a totally dry (near-zero residual sugar!) palate of tactile pungency, finishing with a certain austerity yet also invigorating saline, herbal character and impressive coffee low-tones.So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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