Colin's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees smells of crushed stone; citrus and fusil oil; with cyanic notes of peach kernel and citrus pip. This is another relatively austere Bruno Colin 2007, but invigorating salinity, bright citrus, and some sense of textural generosity keep it from becoming ungenerous. And indeed, the finish here is impressively long and saliva-inducing. I would suggest revisiting in 2010 this wine that might well reward a few years of cellaring. Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.) Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524