Dirler-Cade's 2007 Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes - coming 90% from vines in the Saering and Kessler grand crus - smells alluringly of fresh pear and a carpet of flowers and herbs; offers a satisfying balance of stuffing (at a higher-than-perceived 13.7% alcohol) and refreshment; and finishes with a positively shimmering sense of interplay among fruit, flowers, herbs, lemon zest, and chalky, crystalline mineral notes. Dirler says the Kesseler brings the fruit and perfume and the Saering the Riesling-like acidity and mineral character to this serendipitous blend sure to please for at least another 3-5 years. I-ve occasionally forgotten the odd bottle of Dirler Sylvaner in my cellar and been rewarded years later. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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