The latest in a distinguished line, and an outstanding value, Dirler-Cade’s 2004 Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes (roughly 60% from the Saering grand cru) displays a Sauvignon-like sage, citrus oil, and boxwood nose, pure apple primary fruit with hints of almond, and a glycerin-rich, creamy, palate impression, as well as a clarity and persistent juiciness atypical for Sylvaner. As usual, there is no lack of chalky, stony, smoky, and toasted nut character in the finish of this cuvee, which will keep nicely for up to a decade, even if most tasters would want to drink it (indeed, how many could resist it?) over the next 2-3 years. (The 2005 rendition was irrevocably reduced and thus – for at least the near-term – impossible to assess.)So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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