Readers should check out the high class Vacqueyras made by Tardieu-Laurent. The 1996 is a tannic, masculine wine, with a black cherry, peppery component, medium to full body, backward, and austere. The wine is loaded, but it presents more of a Bordeaux-like tasting profile than that of a southern Rhone. It will need 2-3 years of cellaring when released, and will age well for 10-12+ years.As a postscript, readers should be aware that all the Tardieu-Laurent wines reviewed in this segment are very reasonably priced.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers
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