The 2008 Neromaccarj is one of the firmer, darker wines in this range. There is also an element of inner reserve that is utterly beguiling. Dark black cherries, plums, licorice and minerals sit on a firm backbone of tannins that give the wine its energy. Notable for its intensity and power, the 2008 brings together ripeness and structure in a complete wine that is an absolute joy to taste. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. When I think of benchmark producers of Nero d’Avola one of the first names that comes to mind is Gulfi. The estate makes a number of single-vineyard Nero d’Avolas that provide an opportunity to explore the various shades this great Sicilian variety is capable of expressing. Gulfi’s best-known wines emerge from head-trained Nero d’Avola in the Pachino and Val di Noto districts, all farmed organically. The Reseca, a Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of the Etna, is the exception, but it, too, is fabulous. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202