Chief Winemaker Philip Laffer says that he wanted this wine to be of an “aperitif style…that once you count to five, it should all disappear.” In both respects, the wine succeeds. It’s 20% Pinot Noir, with very light stone fruit flavors and wide foamy mousse on the palate. Chalk and stone fruit flash on the finish. Only 3 or 4,000 cases on the U.S. market now, but many more are sure to follow.——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 85