The 2004 Barbera d-Asti Bricco dell-Uccellone reveals a layered expression of dark cherries, tobacco, earthiness and graphite in a more linear, understated style than is usually the case here. Another year or so of bottle age should help the wine gain greater focus, although I would prefer to drink it on the young side. A recent bottle of the 1996 had aged well, but the fruit had faded somewhat, revealing the grape's naturally high acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Braida was the first estate to make important, high-quality Barberas from Asti. In the past the wines have always been very heavy and rich, but the 2004s are made in a more understated style. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907