Familie Gesellmann Hochberc Blaufrankisch Trocken, Mittelburgenland, Austria

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The 2006 Blaufrankisch Hochberc – which I tasted soon after it had been assembled, and which Gesellmann will release this year – offers the classic blackberry fruit and pepper of local Blaufrankisch in spades. A deep, marrow-like meaty richness, and saline, chalky mineral notes add depth to this finely-tannic, formidably concentrated if rather dark, brooding effort. I’ll be most interested to see how this has turned out from bottle, and don’t doubt it could age well for as long as a decade. The 2007 material looks very impressive as well. Albert Gesellmann – much influenced by the time he spent in California and South Africa in the mid-1990s – makes no apologies for wanting to produce powerful red wines. I have found a few of those that receive accolades within Austria somewhat overwrought and superficially sweet and oaky, although there is no question that the underlying material is concentrated. The Gesellmanns were among Burgenland’s pioneers with Cabernet and Merlot – some of their Bordelaise vines having recently reached a 25th birthday – but in recent years interest here as elsewhere in Mittelburgenland has been focused more on the traditional Blaufrankisch, on blends with Zweigelt and St. Laurent, and on Pinot Noir. The Gesellmanns are not among those with experimental plots of Syrah, although to taste some of their wines, you might believe otherwise.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.