Peat-like smokiness and gamy, faintly fecal notes accent ripe red raspberry in the nose of Lecheneaut 2007 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, and a corresponding array of flavors informs a surprisingly juicy palate strikingly in contrast with the opaque and often slightly rustic concentration exhibited by the 2008s at this address. There is considerable interest as well as shapely structure here, but I would plan on savoring them within the next 3-5 years.
Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut's 2008s had with three exceptions been assembled when I tasted them late last winter, but their malos had been extremely protracted and bottling was due to be later than usual. The brothers employed their usual contingent of new wood but backed-off somewhat on the inclusion of stems (employed at low level even in the village wines) and on pigeage, professing overall satisfaction with a vintage in which they testified to considerable nail-biting in the race between ripeness and rot, but whose fruit required, they said, less sorting than had that of 2007. I found the results here from 2008 on the whole formidably-concentrated but awkwardly marked by their wood and disappointingly lacking in charm or primary juiciness. The several 2007s I was able to taste point in the direction of more harmony and fun-in-drinking, and the Lecheneauts indicated that on the whole they find their 2007s more sweetly-fruited than their 2006s, which they suggest represents a role-reversal from those collections tasted in barrel.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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