From the Brocard family’s holdings in Saint-Bris (whose wines are bottled under their old estate name) the 2007 Bourgogne Aligote Domaine Sainte Claire is lemony-bright, texturally lean, and borders on being tart. That said, it is ultimately zesty, invigorating, and refreshing, as well as possessed of strikingly persistent salinity and chalkiness and a corresponding sense of sheer stuffing that helps buffer its acids. It should have its excellent uses over the next 18-24 months. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400