The domaine of Jean Pierre Large came as a revelation to me of the quality possible in his appellation. Large’s 2006 Chiroubles is brimming with ripe fresh red raspberries, accented by orange zest and white pepper. Deep nut oil and – impossible to describe otherwise – mineral notes well up on the palate and the wine finishes bracing, lip-smacking and yet thought-provoking. From his base in southern Beaujolais, Pierre Chermette (like nearby Jean-Paul Brun) has become one of the beacons of Beaujolais quality, as well as a landholder in the “crus” of northern Beaujolais. (Since his label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed accordingly.) Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

A structured, ripe wine with big, boisterous fruit. There are fresh strawberry flavors, hints of banana and candy; the aftertaste is solid, with dry tannins.——R.V.(9/1/2008)—— 87