Petite Sirah at its best aspires to be rich, full-bodied and opulent. This is that kind of wine. It has flavors of red stone fruits and berries, thick, dusty, ageworthy tannins, and is bone dry. It also can’t quite shake its basically rustic nature, which this wine celebrates instead of trying to hide. ——S.H.(12/31/2005)—— 88