Jakob Schneider Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese, Nahe, Germany

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Overtly, lusciously, almost excessively sweet, the Schneider 2009 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese is scented with ripe apricot and musk melon, to which syrup-drenched pineapple and persimmon are added on a palate of glossy, subtly oily texture yet (at 9% alcohol hardly surprising) levity. A remarkable persistence suggesting that candied blood orange and pink grapefruit rinds have joined the parade of fruits makes for a real flourish. Hopefully as this overtly sweet and metaphorically rather opaque Riesling matures over the next 15 or more years a greater sense of mineral complexity and interaction will emerge. But I suspect it’s going to take at least a decade just for the sense of sheer sweetness to back-off a bit.I used to visit this estate back in the 1980s and early ‘90s when the garrulous grandfather of today’s Jakob Schneider presided over distinctively old-fashioned and site-specific Riesling and a large if sometimes repetitive trove of anecdotes and wine lore. In those days, this was the only important Riesling-growing estates I knew that still raised livestock and grain alongside.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300