Plumpjack’s 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate was aged in 75% new French oak, underwent malolactic in barrel, and was kept in wood for 20 months prior to bottling. A brilliant effort, it possesses the classic first-growth qualities that the Oakville Corridor seems to always achieve. Notes of cedarwood, creme de cassis, licorice and incense, along with fabulous balance, sweet tannins and a multilayered mouthfeel are found in this full-bodied, gorgeous 2004. Enjoy it now or cellar it for another 15+ years. It is another wine that demonstrates that 2004 is even better than I thought early on.

This is the winery's regular estate Cab, and it's good, elegant wine. Dry and balanced, it shows blackberry, cassis and new oaky, smoky flavors; it's rich in smooth, ripe, dense tannins. It's a masculine wine in need of some time in the cellar, though not one of PlumpJack's greater Cabernets, marked as it is by some sharpness. Drink now through 2010.