The clear highlight among the eight 2008s I tasted, the 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles is a true knock-out. Dried flowers, savory herbs, apricots, peaches and licorice meld together seamlessly in this impeccable, gracious Burgundy. Today, the 2008 is just starting to fill out its frame. A rich, weighty and voluptuous finish supported by considerable energy rounds things out nicely. This is a great, great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Once again, I tasted with Jacques Lardiere and Frederic Barnier during a marathon session that lasted several hours. Lardiere has been on a whirlwind tour celebrating his last year at Jadot before his long-announced retirement, but I will believe he is stepping down when I see it. Lifers like Lardiere simply don’t retire. As for the wines, Jadot’s 2010s are unqualified successes across the board. Of course, the wines from the most prestigious appellations are often compelling, but frankly I find just as much joy in discovering the many fabulous Burgundies from unheralded villages that are sprinkled throughout this portfolio. Lardiere and Barnier first thought 2010 was better for reds than whites, but that gap has narrowed recently in their opinion. Yields were down 15-20% for the whites (less than the reds), because of the December, 2009 frost and irregular flowering the following spring. A number of wines were chaptalized approximately 0.5%. The 2010 whites were bottled between February and March 2012. I also tasted a handful of 2009s and 2008s, which I have included here as part of my goal to revisit wines from bottle on a regular basis. I continue to be thrilled by the Jadot 2009 whites, while the 2008s I tasted are mostly equally succesful. Jadot fans know that this venerable winery is composed of several brands; Maison Louis Jadot, Domaine Louis Jadot, Heritiers de Louis Jadot, Domaine Duc de Magenta and Domaine Gagey. In the interest of simplicity, I have listed all of the wines in this section under Domaine/Maison Jadot. There are two cases in which a wine is made by more than one of the labels, in which case the corresponding tasting note indicates which wine was tasted; they are the Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru Garenne and the Puligny-Montrachet premier cru Folatieres. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles is an aristocratic, buttoned-up wine that needs time in the glass to reveal its considerable charms. A sweet, nuanced bouquet melds into layers of fruit in this wonderfully deep, seductive white. The Demoiselles shows endless layers of flavor that wrap around the palate in an intense yet understated, silky style that is striking. I especially like the way this fleshes out on the textured, vivid finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Jacques Lardiere and Frederic Barnier showed me a wide range of 2009s during my visit in late June, 2011. Many of the jewels among the 2009s are hidden in the villages level wines, which I highly encourage readers to check out. I also tasted a selection of 2008s. The 2008s are quite fat for the year. Yields were lower than in 2009. Lardiere made the decision to age the wines longer on their lees to give them more richness, which he felt was lacking because of the inconsistent, high acid vintage. As a result, these are fairly big 2008s.Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756