The 2009 Chardonnay shows good varietal character in its tropical fruit, French oak, butterscotch and smoke. A clean, mineral finish gives the wine its focus and sense of proportion. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. I have been drinking the wines of Castello di Monsanto since about as long as I can remember, which is at least 20 years. This set of new releases is quite frankly perplexing. In particular the flagships Nemo and Il Poggio are disappointing in 2007. Hopefully Monsanto will get back on track quickly. Importer: MW Imports, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (718) 596-3339

There’s a soothing, silky quality to this sunny Tuscan Chardonnay that sets it apart in a crowd. The wine is aged in both stainless steel and oak in order to maintain its fresh aromas of apricot and candied citrus as well as the richness of its texture. ——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 90