The Richter 2009 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett feinherb is quite sweet-tasting despite its being so-labeled, but displays luscious pink grapefruit and lemon, a satiny texture, and an alliance of salinity and brightness that make for a lip-smacking finish. Simply rather than complexly delicious, it might gain further nuance with some time in bottle, and ought certainly to keep well for at least 7-9 years. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

There's power to this, but the flavors are restrained, suggesting ripe apple, grapefruit and slate. Gets progressively tighter by the finish, which has some texture to it. Drink now through 2014. 650 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add