Philippe Collotte Marsannay le Clos de Jeu

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4387

Collotte’s 2008 Marsannay Le Clos de Jeu features wild fennel and tart cherry tinged with white pepper, lemon zest, and cardamom. Firm and bright, it practically sizzles in pungency, rendering memorable invigoration, but also – like so many early-bottled Pinots of its vintage – seemingly locking in a memory of malic tartness (perhaps accentuated by late-dispersing CO2). Caution should be exercised both when pairing and cellaring this, although I’ll be very interested to witness how it evolves over the next several years. Ordinarily, one would expect the deeper, clay-rich soils of the Clos de Jeu to promote more depth of flavor, but presumably their water-retentiveness served for maintaining high acidity, and clay warms more slowly than rocks and pebbles. Philippe Collotte (for more about whom, and about his sites, consult issue 186) had a difficult 2008 vintage, with a couple of wines (including that from a small parcel of Gevrey handicapped by a big-berried clone) that I could not recommend.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800