Philippe Collotte Marsannay le Clos de Jeu

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From 40 year old, tiny-clustered and millerandage-prone vines bordering Grasse-Tetes and Saint-Jacques, the Collotte 2006 Marsannay Le Clos De Jeu smells of bitter-sweet black fruits, peat, and dark-roast coffee. Yet for all of the darkness the aforementioned descriptors suggest, it is bright in its impression of fresh fruit, tart berry acidity, as well as in its chalky underpinnings. This is spare but concentrated and penetrating Pinot that may well improve in bottle for a couple of years, and should certainly prove versatile over the next 4-6. On the basis of a single Philippe Collotte 2005s (reviewed in issue 171) it was clear to me that his name belonged on the lengthening roster of Marsannay vintners seriously committed to quality, who as it happens are for the most part also proponents of organic viticulture and the rediscovery of early 20th century wine growing traditions. Collotte has built on the roughly eight acres around Marsannay that he inherited from his father, under whom the production was sold in barrel. The proprietors of the well-known Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, incidentally, are cousins with whom Collette shares a courtyard.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800