The 2012 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from their 0.08-hectare parcel in Le Charlemagne, berthed slightly toward the Pernand side. The nose seemed very tight when I tasted it from barrel despite rigorous coaxing. The palate is already showing good weight and harmony. The oak is nicely integrated at the beginning but will need to be subsumed toward the finish. It is just a little conservative at the moment, but it is finely crafted. It just needs to muster a little more personality after bottling.
A hole had opened up in my itinerary when Philippe Colin had to cancel our rendezvous, (nothing personal – his 2012s had had to be racked and were not in representative condition.) What to do before my 5 p.m. meeting with Olivier Lamy? Walking back from Domaine Alain Chavy I popped my head round the door to see if Jean-Michel Charton was (a) there and (b)willing to show me his 2012s. As luck would have it, I was able to spend a profitable 90 minutes tasting through his whites. His wines have tended to be a little underrated out there in the market place. I have had more time for them than others and the 2012s attest to a producer that is improving with every passing vintage.
Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 255-9414; Fax: (212) 633-2372. www.winebow.com
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