Among the single solera sherries, the pale-colored dry, salty La Gitana Manzanilla is a terrific aperitif. Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 297-6713

The benchmark among fino-style Sherries is La Gitana. Simply put, it’s a classic. Pour yourself a copita of this beauty and sip it while munching some olives, peanuts or pistachios. Shazzam! You’re transported to a whitewashed village in Andalusia. Aromas of mushroom and yeast are just as they should be. And deep within are subtle flavors of marzipan and citrus. The long, salty, bone-dry finish cleanses the palate and primes your appetite for better things to come. ——M.S.(11/15/2004)—— 89