Alice et Olivier de Moor Sauvignon de Saint-Bris, Burgundy, France

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The De Moors’ 2008 Saint-Bris retains an unusually palpable amount of dissolved CO2 considering that it was filtered, a precaution made necessary by its having stopped with five grams of residual sugar (and even that at nearly 14% alcohol). But Olivier De Moor says he was happy to conserve the gas to enhance the wine’s sense of vivacity, though heaven knows it would have had lots of liveliness even without the spritz! Lime, pineapple, caraway, gooseberry, and white currant combine on a tart, refreshing palate, with high acidity guaranteeing that the residual sugar is rendered undetectable. This radiates a veritably vibratory energy and finishes with focused and emphatic, if somewhat tart and bitter, intensity. Like past Saint-Bris Sauvignons from this address – of which it is hardly the first to be so outrageously distinctive and strong-willed – this should be fascinating to follow over the next 3-4 years if not beyond. The high acids and sheer concentration of Alice and Olivier De Moor’s 2008 raw material came close to getting the better of a couple of their wines, making for a collection qualitatively more heterogeneous than usual, but culminating in the best Chablis I can recall from this address (which I have been visiting off and on for more than 15 years).Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191