Illustrating the outstanding potential for Sauvignon in this sector and vintage, the De Moor 2007 Saint-Bris also reflects the geological underpinnings of its entire appellation, in growing on largely Portlandian limestone and a minority of Kimmeridgian. Penetratingly pungent, high-toned aromas of peppermint, pear and apple distillates, pine resin, elder flower, caraway, and grapefruit zest rise from the glass and their proxies alternate in kaleidoscopic fashion on a palate of prickly intensity. Almost riotous in its energy and face-slapping in its finishing intensity, no one will accuse this wine of subtlety or refinement! “Maybe I’m crazy,” says Olivier De Moor, “but I want to get the Sauvignon ripe, while retaining the acidity.” He certainly succeeded here, and 13.5% alcohol (the highest of any wine in his 2007 collection) by no means inhibits the sense of energy and consummate invigoration delivered by this exceptionally complex Saint-Bris. One other interesting point: De Moor has been steadily replacing dead vines in his 60-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vineyard with the variant known as Fie Gris, so in fact some 10% of this finished wine is not Sauvignon Blanc.Beginning their harvest in mid-September, the De Moors made two passes on nearly every parcel to adapt to irregular ripening that was a legacy of hail. The upshot was thus another labor-intensive and low-yielding vintage, but there the similarities with 2006 end, as the character of the De Moor 2007s is strikingly different; and they are more consistently excellent.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191
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