Sparkman Cellars 'Lumiere' Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, USA

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The collection contains one white wine, the 2007 Chardonnay Lumiere, sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The wine spent 8 months in 50% New French oak, was fermented with native yeasts, and received weekly batonnage. Light gold-colored, it offers up a perfume of toasty oak, baking spices, lemon, and tropical aromas. Elegant on the palate, it has excellent concentration, savory fruit, lively acidity, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. It tastes like a hypothetical blend of Cote de Beaune and Sonoma Coast. Drink it over the next 4 years. Sparkman Cellars, located in Woodinville, was founded in 2004 by Christian Sparkman, his wife, and partners. Tel. (425) 398-1045; www.sparkmancellars.com

This is minimal intervention winemaking, using native yeast, then put through 100% malolactic and given weekly batinage (lees stirring) in 50% new barrels. The grapes are from Stillwater Creek, delivering ripe, tangy flavors of lime, pineapple, apple, pear and nectarine; all with a firm acid underpinning.——P.G.(3/1/2009)—— 90