Shows its aspirations to the northern Rhone in the 100% varietal that’s wrapped in dense young tannins now, but deep down below brims with finely ripe fruit. Black currants, licorice, mu shu pork plum sauce, sweet worn leather and Asian spice flavors mingle into a long, complex finish. This is a wine to watch. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 88