Weingut Carl Loewen Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

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I was less than fully convinced by this year’s heavily botrytised Laurentiuslay Beerenauslese, but Loewen’s 2005 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Beerenauslese was another story. Quince jelly, candied lime peel, and marzipan aromas lead to a pure, quince and honey impression on the palate, setting up a counterpoint with alkaline, salty mineral notes. Vanilla cream, quince preserves, orange and lemon candy, malt and caramel inform a rich, long and multi-layered finish, buoyed by just enough acidity. I would not hesitate to cellar this for 15 or 20 years.Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300