From diverse, largely high-elevation locations and vines of 50 years average age, Boillot's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin mingles game, peat, and lightly-cooked cherry. Firm and a bit austere on the palate, it displays a formidable sense of underlying stoniness, and finishes with low-toned persistence. As with several of the wines in this collection, it may well have been suffering a bit from recent bottling when I last tasted. I suspect in any event, though, that it will be best consumed within 3-4 years. Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990