A lush, silky mouthfeel; bright berries come through the otherwise dark coffee- and chocolate-scented fruit to add interest. Nice balance, with soft tannins that make it approachable now but should allow it to age for 10 years or more.——J.C.(3/1/2000)—— 90

Cockburn’s purchased this property in 1989. Historically, grapes from Canais accounted for approximately half of the blend in Cockburn’s vintage Port, and Corte-Real describes the ’95 Canais as “very much Cockburn.” The color is a dark saturated ruby, the aromas combine meat, chocolate and plum. Corte-Real says that the vintage was even hotter than ’94 during harvest and fermentation, and some of that shows in the finished wine’s hint of raisined fruit. Creamy, ripe tannins and a hint of pepper mark the finish. Hold.——J.C.(3/1/2004)—— 89