Always spicy and forward in a pleasing way, Pinot Noirs from this largish vineyard, located in the eastern part of the appellation, offer broad appeal when young. Longoria’s ’06 is a prime example of this precocity, showing a soft, melted mouthfeel and flavors of cherries, smoky vanilla, Asian spicebox and Provencal herbs. At its flashy, impertinent best now.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 88