Of the group of California wineries dedicated to producing wines from grapes that have been made famous by France's Rhone Valley, Edmunds St. John may be its finest practitioner. The wines exhibit exceptional winemaking talent, a sense of balance and grace, and considerable pleasure and character. All of the current and forthcoming red wine releases merit serious interest. The wines, all fashioned after France's great Rhone Valley reds, are rich, exuberant, full-bodied wines loaded with ripe fruit. Even the less expensive offerings are successful. They include a N.V. Les Cotes Sauvages-Cuvee Wahluke (a 1990 with Washington state Grenache in the blend, hence the official "non-vintage" status).