The barrel-fermented 2019 Saint-Péray Lieu-dit Hongrie features scents of scorched citrus zest, toasted grain and grilled pineapple, and yet I don't find the level of oak objectionable. The charred notes are a minor element, with the wine being more about the citrusy fruit and ripe, round feel on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, this is lush and immediately opulent, yet retains a sense of structure on the long, mouth-coating finish. This is a very consistent bottling year after year, and the 2019 may be the best one yet.