I am quite enamored of the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva that boasts beautiful floral notes that are both rare and precious. At the back of those feminine, somewhat ethereal tones are grounded aromas of spice, crushed terracotta and balsam herb. This wine impresses for the direct and pristine perspective it offers on the grape, that is already showing tiny steps toward tertiary complexity. The wine is at a very interesting point in its drinking window right now, and will continue its careful evolutionary course with a few more years of bottle rest. Drink: 2017-2028. Claudio Tipa of Coastal Tuscany’s Collemassari (and Bolgheri’s Grattamacco) is the new owner of the 12-hectare Poggio di Sotto estate since 2011. Although these wines were produced under the previous owner, the cantankerous Piero Palmucci, they happily pave the way for a new chapter at this iconic estate in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate subzone in the appellation’s southwest quadrant. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, www.kermitlynch.com

Changes dramatically with aeration. The initial leather and dried cherry aromas and leafy flavors evolve to sweet cherry and peach, with spice, tea and mineral notes. Builds to a long, anise-inflected finish. Vibrant, complex and fascinating. Not for everyone's taste, but offers intensity on a light-weight frame. Drink now through 2024. 90 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add