Never tasting better, the 2002 Merlot was one of the finest Merlots tasted in my retrospective of 2002s. Made from a final blend of 88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, it exhibits plenty of sweet mocha and round berry fruit along with a hint of smoky oak, a rich, creamy, broad, savory mouthfeel, a sexy finish, and lots of opulence and density. Complex and fully mature, it should provide immense pleasure for another 7-8 years where well-stored. I am hardly alone in having enormous respect for the Shafer family, whose father, John, started this venerable Stags Leap winery in 1978. John still has an amazingly vigorous constitution as he moves into his eighth decade of life, although his son, Doug, is now carrying the Shafer banner. Since the beginning, they have enjoyed the services of one of the world’s great winemakers, Elias Fernandez. These are the highest scores I have ever given their regular cuvees of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which again demonstrates what extraordinary winemaking and attention to detail takes place at Shafer. Everything can be recommended, from their Red Shoulder Chardonnay to their bevy of wine made from Bordeaux varietals as well as their famed Relentless, a blend of Syrah and Petite Sirah. This winery has clearly been on the top of its game for two decades and only continues to improve. How admirable is that? Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

Plush and complex, with an elegant core of ripe, vivid, well-defined currant, blackberry and wild berry fruit that's intense and concentrated, showing off pretty mocha-laced oak nuances along with a touch of herb and green olive. Finishes with a smooth, soothing aftertaste and flavors of notable depth and richness. Drink now through 2010. 9,800 cases made. -JL