The 2006s are top-flight. The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition shows excellent licorice, incense, and seaweed notes intermixed with creme de cassis, blackberry, and smoke. It is a medium to full-bodied, spicy, plump, fleshy wine to drink during its first 10-12 years of life. Young vigneron Jean-Marie Olivier hit pay dirt with his brilliant 2000s but then seemed to zigzag between irregularity and consistency over the following four vintages. He has come back strong in 2005 as well as 2006, so hopefully this will become an increasingly reliable estate to follow. There are three cuvees of wine in most vintages, although in 2005 only two showed up at my tasting.An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400
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