The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Schlossberg Jungfernlese is named to refer to the “virgin,” i.e. first harvest, of young vines. In a pattern not uncommon for first harvests, the crop amounted to only one or two tiny-berried bunches per vine and the resulting must, elevated in sugar, finished fermenting with 17 grams left behind. Aromas of apricot, crabapple and rhubarb are tinged with white pepper and nutmeg. On the palate, this wine of middle weight exudes honey and ripe pit fruits, but is also strongly marked by a tart notes of rhubarb and gooseberry. The effect is mouthwatering and dynamic, if not by any means harmonious. The finish is sweet, tart and positively sizzling in its combination of pungent pepper, tart acidity, and fruit skin intensity. This is certainly one to watch. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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