The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo is super-impressive. Black cherries, blackberries, smoke and licorice burst from the glass in this extroverted, powerful Riserva. I can’t say there is a lot of Sangiovese typicity here, but the wine nevertheless impresses for its balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of dark fruit build to the huge, explosive finish. The 2008 is going to require time, but is a gem. The Berardo is 100% Sangiovese aged in new French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. These new releases from Castello di Bossi and consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini are off the charts. Prices remain very reasonable considering the quality of what is in the glass. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620