Hints of While I have not yet had chance to taste Pinon’s 2009s – which include at least one selectively-picked, nobly sweet cuvee – his 2008 Vouvray Cuvee Tradition represents a succulent, subtly-sweet success. Notes of snuffed candle wick, moth balls, and lanolin mingle with quince and pineapple in the nose, anticipating the smoky, bittersweet palate impression that follows, supported by judicious sweetness and ample primary fruit juiciness. Nut oils, chalk, and wet stone add further complexity to the also faintly bitter finish of this compact yet immediately appealing Vouvray that will likely hold up well for at least half a dozen years. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191