Pinon's demi-sec, the 1997 Vouvray Cuvee Tradition, reveals mint, clay, ripe white fruit, and green flower aromas. This expansive wine has huge breadth of flavors, with tangy white currants, poached pears, candied apples, and quince clearly discernable in its medium-to-full-bodied character. It is vibrant, light on its feet, and offers exquisite balance between richness and freshness. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, Long Island City, NY; tel (718) 433-4781.