There’s a lot going on in this young Chard, suggesting moderate aging to let all the parts meld. The wine, from a southern appellation close to Carneros, is dry and crisp in acids, with peach, green apple and dried herb flavors enhanced by smoky, vanilla-tinged oak. Give it through 2007, and should hold for another five years.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 88