Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Gondonne

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From deep, southerly-exposed Marne clay and oyster fossil-rich Kimmeridgian limestone slopes planted largely with a selection of vines from Raveneau, the Goisot 2008 Cotes d’Auxerre Gondonne displays a juicy primary fruitiness of pear and yellow plum as well as a scallop-like savory depth to accompany the citric brightness, salinity, and overt chalkiness that it shares with its two single-vineyard siblings. Palpably dense yet refreshing and invigorating, it finishes long on pronounced, almost austere chalk and salt, but also with striking lift. It should prove versatile and fascinating over at least the next half dozen years. The Goisots were recently able to add a new parcel in Gondonne by swapping acreage with a grower for whom the site was too dauntingly steep for him to recoup its laborious cultivation. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040