Sweet botrytis can be discerned in as yet unformed aromas of the huge, hyper-concentrated 2000 Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz Selection de Grains Nobles. This head-turner has searing acidity to match its creamy, velvety-textured peach and apricot-dominated character. It is extremely sweet, luxurious, and has a remarkable finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2030.The youthful Jean-Christophe Bott, this winery's winemaker and director, believes 2000 "is not an exceptional vintage, yet is outstanding. The last extraordinary year we had was 1990. That being said, the 2000s all have beautiful richness of fruit and some have excellent acidity."Importer: European Cellars, Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565; A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93