Weingut Emrich-Schonleber Riesling Qba Trocken, Nahe, Germany

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Schonleber’s 2006 Monzinger Riesling trocken incorporates some cooler and traditionally less highly-rated Monzingen sites he has rented as well as lower parts of Halenberg that had to be picked early for fear of rot. Subtle smoky and floral notes wreath a juicy core of fresh lime laced with saline, somehow tingling mineral suggestions, and an excellent balance between stuffing and refreshing lightness is observed at only 11.5% alcohol. “In the ‘80s,” remarks Schonleber, “we were happy if we had a Spatlese trocken like this.” “The Nahe had the capability to render really good dry wines this year,” asserts Werner Schonleber. “Elsewhere, the botrytis was problematic, or the ripening took place too quickly. But we caught the whole spectrum here.” He proceeded to prove this memorably in the glass, with the finest collection I have ever tasted at this address (as well as – improbably – one in which Fruhlingsplatzchen outperformed Halenberg).Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463