Here’s a super-modern, piacione (roughly translated from the Italian as “no one can resist it”) wine with deep layers of vanilla, toast, roasted espresso bean, blackberry, balsam notes, smoke, spice and tar. The wine is thick and soft in the mouth and almost ready to drink now (or in five years). The finish is delicious with a long cherry-flavored fade. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 94