Barmes’ 2004 Riesling Hengst is overtly chalky and stony, big-boned, and showing a bit of heat from what should in principle hardly count as excessive (14%) alcohol. Still, this relatively weighty, truly dry Riesling is forceful and long on sheer personality, if not elegance. The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.
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