Toni Jost Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs

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Lemon, apple, and freshly-ground cornmeal scent the Jost 2010 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, which displays a pithy, chewy, slightly rough and rustic palate impression fortunately informed by persistent citric juiciness. There is impressively penetrating persistence but scarcely charm. I would want to revisit before prognosticating about bottle evolution but I am not especially optimistic. As with a great many dry German Rieslings of this genre, the stylistic contrast with the warmhearted generosity and wit that characterize the family who crafted this strikes me as almost depressingly ironic. Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463