Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany

海格酒莊雷司令白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：13984

The Haags’ generic, 11.5% alcohol 2008 Riesling trocken smells of pineapple, grapefruit caraway, apple pip, and wood smoke. Quite silken on the palate, its finish of wet stone, grapefruit rind, caraway, and apple pip is invigoratingly pungent and piquant, with a generosity of primary juiciness, levity, as well as a soothing texture that all keep it from coming off as austere. As usual in recent years, this represents fruit from Burgen (Wilhelm Haag’s home town) along with the material culled from the Brauneberg sites as part of a “pre-harvest.” Plan to enjoy it over the next 3-4 years. Oliver Haag began picking already before the mid-point of October, but the results testify to his having had fully ripe grapes. “We did a lot of leaf-pulling and an extensive pre-harvest thinning this year,” he points out, adding that “the Auslesen were picked largely at the end of October, not too late. One picking was intended for Beerenauslese, but it didn’t appeal to me for that character, considering what good wines we have had in recent years, so I declassified that fruit into gold capsule Auslese.” Haag has this year dropped the Pradikat designations from all of his dry-tasting wines (and “Juffer” from what used to be "Juffer Kabinett"), while bottled his Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr-Sonnenuhr trocken as Grosses Gewachs. The idea is not only to simplify and to create a convention that non-Pradikat wines taste dry or nearly-so, but also to return to something more like the labeling that prevailed before 1971. But putting the words “Erste Lage” on the label of wines from the Sonnenuhr – in keeping with a VDP-wide program – actually adds further impetus to fatuous consumer questions. As all close students and lovers of Burgundy know, the words “premier cru” on a label mean increasingly little, and the best sites or portions of sites nowadays achieve their price and due reverence regardless of whether the label indicates “premier cru.” Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.